A fresh perspective…
I’m very proud to say, that both of my children are now college graduates. What they do with those degrees and that education is up to them. My part however, is finished.
After Teddy completed his last college credits doing conservation work in Patagonia. Instead of me going to South America, my daughter met him there to travel, and two weeks later, he flew north to meet me in Nicaragua for warm weather and surf! The trip came together over time and morphed and changed. The first week was Marsh and his daughter and Teddy and I. The second week was just my son and I.
Before I left, I received lots of questions about the safety of Nicaragua. I was heading over there based on experiences from trusted friends who visit frequently. I was not afraid. I booked places to stay on Airbnb consulting one of my friends as I went.
The journey that unfolded could never have been planned. Our English and our American dollars only got us so much.
We were forced to settle in to the Nicaraguan way: driving slowly on roads with river crossings, getting caught behind cattle drives, and dodging dogs. Grocery shopping was a treasure hunt as we figured ou which little Pulperia had the food we wanted… eggs, fruit, coffee, cereal, milk, beer and not just chips and soda.
I had two contacts in Nica. An American friend of a friend who lives in Rancho Santana, a gorgeous gated community in the central surf area on the Pacific, and a 26 year old Nicaraguan friend of a friend who lives in a modest house he is building himself in Astillero, a fishing village further north, also known for its good surf waves.
Teddy and I stayed in between Rancho Santana and Astillero in a little bed and breakfast called Surf Sanctuary. We planned our days around WhatsAp conversations with Alan who spoke no English, and Isabel who I messaged on Instagram.
As I look back on the trip from the comfort of my home with my coffee in front of my fire, the week with Teddy was a balance of finding adventure and slowing down. We were lucky to access Rancho Santana for an International New Years Eve party complete with band and DJ, and get permission to walk the trails, where we met an Englishman who took us to the “Bird Hide” where we identified green herons, blue herons, two types of Kingfisher, snowy egrets, a motmot, a laughing falcon, parakeets and more. We walked a lot. The 40 min walk to Beginners Bay next to Mag Rock was a daily occurrence. We rented surf boards there, took yoga there, observed the tide, found our favorite bars, and walked further past to more restaurants, and beaches.
In Astillero, things were different. Less tourists and businesses catering to tourists meant trash on the beach, and instructions to leave our wallets and phones in the car. We started that day driving our two wheeled drive car on a nearly impassable road to a nature reserve called Chococente where I had hoped to see anteaters and toucans and sloths. Instead the reserve only had newly hatched baby turtles and lots of military men hanging around. No tour, no maps, no hostel, and no restaurant, like the website claimed. Teddy gave surfing another go and really exercised his Spanish with our local friend/guide Alan. After surfing we walked to the fish market, bought dorado freshly caught that morning, and went back to Alan’s house where he and his wife made us fresh ceviche and I practiced my Spanish on their 6 and 4 year old children. The dogs and chickens and family pig ran around excited over fish scraps and lime peels.
We watched the sunset most nights and played scrabble or cribbage, caught up on our phones and read our books until we fell asleep prepared to be awakened by the crazy morning bird sounds.
Driving Nicaraguan roads with the fear of traffic stops by the policia while my son and I shared music and I pointed out every piglet and calf and baby chick on the side of the road will be a memory I cherish forever.
Traveling allows you to get outside your routine, take in the world , and bring back the lessons. I want to be the local on the bike, with the chickens in my yard that shops from the local bakery and the local farmer, while appreciating the trails and the nature surrounding us and picking up the trash when we see it. Finding beauty in simple food, simple houses and simple pleasures like music and games and books. The surfing? I’ll leave that to the ocean people.
My heart is full and I feel lucky! Time to get back to work.
